Overwintering Cucumber cultivation three focuses
First, fertilization site preparation
Cultivation overwintering cucumber must be applied to the base fertilizer. The base fertilizer should be composted with straw compost, cattle and horse manure, chicken manure, pig manure and manure. (The manure should be applied before the buckle film is applied.) When applied into the ring fertilizer and manure, appropriate amounts of freshly chopped fresh can be added. Straw, fully cooked wheat bran, rice husk, and discarded edible mushroom culture medium. General Mushi farmyard fertilizer 3000 ~ 5000 kg, superphosphate 100 kg or 30 ~ 50 kg of DAP or biological fertilizer 40 ~ 50 kg or 200 kg of cake fat. The base fertilizer should be applied for a long time, and when the base fertilizer is less, 2/3 spread and 1/3 spread can be applied. After spreading on the ground, deep-dip 2 times, and then open the ditch by row spacing, apply the remaining fertilizer into the ditch, mix well with the soil, and then pour the water in the ditch and make the sole. Overwintering and picking cucumber cultivation generally take large and small ridges, small row spacing 80 cm, large row spacing 100 cm, acres planted 3300 ~ 3500 strains.
Second, planting
1, planting seedlings should be selected sunny. The seedlings are graded according to large, medium, and small scales and transported to the side of the planting ridge. From the perspective of the entire greenhouse, the big seedlings should be placed at the east and the west and the front of the greenhouse. The seedlings should be placed in the middle of the greenhouse. Judging from one line, the big seedlings are in the front, the young seedlings are in the back, and the general seedlings are in the middle, which is favorable for later growth and neatness.
Because the light in the greenhouse is strong before and after, the seedlings and seedlings must be grasped before the dense and thin, so that the seedlings in different parts can obtain similar light. Planting can open the hole according to the distance between the plants, within the hole planting seedlings; or in the colonization ridge to open a deep ditch, the seedlings will be placed in the ditch according to the prescribed spacing slightly fixed. Water in the hole or ditch, seal the pit (ditch) after water infiltration. Note that the seedlings should not be planted deep. After the soil is sealed, the seedlings can be kept flat with the ridge surface. Note that the marrying interface cannot be buried in the soil.
2. Covering the plastic film In the past, people used to coat the cucumber after the film was first applied, or cover the plastic film immediately after planting. This is actually not conducive to the deep rooting of the grafted seedlings and reduces the ability of the plants to resist cold and bear low temperatures. Because the ground temperature during planting is still relatively high, it is not necessary to cover the membrane. After the planting, the deep rooting should be promoted as much as possible after planting, and then cover the mulch about 15 days after planting.
Third, hang vine
In order to promote the development and maintain the vitality of the root system, most of the cultivation of cucumbers during the winter season is based on the method of not using the natural growth method. Overwintering cucumbers generally grow to 40 to 50 knots, and the height of the greenhouse is limited. The growth of the cucumbers will be necessary for a period of time.
For the convenience of falling, it is generally used nylon, cloth hanging, or nylon net support, which can greatly reduce the shading of the frame. When hanging nylon or nylon mesh, try to make it not directly connected with the greenhouse arch, it is best to stand alone. Hanging nylon line should be set aside more in the upper part, in order to fall when the renewal.
When hanging the vine, the operation should be light, do not sink too much once, and do not damage the leaves. To make the leaves in the space evenly distributed, do not block each other. At the same time, the lower yellow leaves, lateral branches, tendrils, male flowers, malformed melons, and diseased melons must be removed. Picking leaves is not a necessary measure. Generally, the leaves that grow well and are relatively intact should not be easily destroyed. Generally, no more than 2 to 3 leaves are to be beaten at a time. Try to keep about 20 functional leaves per plant.
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